Dec 15, 2010 If you don't have the manual you might try to obtain one from Red Light Enterprises if they're still around or possibly you could make. Aristo VCl 4500.

I am trying to figure out how to use my aristo vcl4500 cold light system. Aristo's instructions are of very little help. I am using a metrolux II timer, and am starting to believe that the whole system is a bit too complicated for my needs. I bought the enlarger with these two devices, mainly because I had worked with beseler 4x5's in school and prefer them. The cold light seems to be a good way to go as far as a light source, but the current interface is might be a little too fancy for me. Can anyone out there 1.

Explain in a simple manner how to use the vcl4500, specificaly the contrast dial (I have read that these numbers do not correspond with actual paper contrast values) and/or how to use the metrolux timer with this system (I have read about calibrations being necessary) and 2. Recommend a simpler set-up I could persue with or without a coldlight for a beseler. I am a user of VC paper.

You have a great system, Jonathan. You can get very good results by using the system right out of the box, without calibration. Place the Metrolux light probe on a blue tube facing the blue tube, which should give consistent and repeatable times in a specific contrast grade. Then just dial in the contrast you want on the Aristo control. The Aristo numbers don’t exactly match the paper grades, but with most papers they are close. Exposure times will change in different contrast grades, so you will eventually want to calibrate your system.

I personally made up a printed table of contrasts and exposure adjustments, based on info obtained by printing step tablets. Kuttyweb Games For Pc. Check out the Way Beyond Monochrome book by Lambrecht and Woodhouse, and the BTZS book by Phil Davis. And search the archives of this and other forums.

I'm not familiar with the Metrolux, but I've used the VCL4500 for years and it has been great. The head has two grids in it, a green and a blue. The green tube is the highlight printer and the blue is the shadow printer. Mass Downloader 3.3 Build 681 Full. There is also a switch that in the up position, will illuminate only the blue tube.

When in the down position, both grids should light, but depending on the position of the contrast adjusting knob, the blue may be anywhere from off (0.0) to fully on (5.1). The green tube doesn't change. The contrast settings on any VC cold light are only going to approximate paper grades.

It doesn't really matter if they don't match exactly and they won't. The big advantage is that you can dial in intermediate grades very easily. I usually start at 2.0 with an average negative and make a test print. If the highlights are correctly exposed but the shadows are too light, I might just dial in a little more blue by setting the knob to 2.2 or 2.5. If the shadows are too dense, I'll back it off a tad to 1.8 or 1.5. Small adjustments like these won't require adjustments to exposure generally. If you are way off and end up having to go from 2.0 to 3.5 for example, you will need to adjust the overall exposure time as this radical a change will impact the density of many midrange tones to a greater degree.

Where this system really shines is when you want to burn in a cloud without making surrounding mountains get unnaturally dark in isolated areas. You just dial in 0.0 and burn away. Similarly, you can burn dark areas on a snowy peak without darkening the snow itself, by turning that switch to blue only. The other technique I use occassionally is split printing. I can expose the top half of a print with a 2.0 and the lower half with a 3.0. Just put a bit of tape along the edges of the easel and mark the transisiton area with a sharpie so you'll know where to move your doging card.

You will come to love this once you get used to it. I used the system you have for many years (I still own it but I don't use it any more because I now print digitally). Av Voice Changer Diamond Crack Download.

I don't think the Metrolux timer is easy to set up without the instruction manual. Do you have that manual? The VCL 4500 isn't very complicated to set up so I'm not sure exactly what problems you're encountering. If you bought this system new then the principal problem in setting it up is that you have to drill a hole in the VCL 4500 metal covering so that the two lines for the blue and green lights can be attached to the two glass tubes in the head. That's a little scary because one misstep and you've drilled into the glass tubes on your $1,000 head. If you bought the system used then presumably the prvious owner did this drilling for you.